Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Montrose can flirt with perfection when it wants to. This bottle, poured blind, is not the best example I have tasted, partly because it displays just a soupcon of Brettanomyces on the nose. The aromatics have a lovely warmth, with blackberries, rosemary and pencil shavings. However, because of the Brett, I feel that other bottles display more delineation. The palate is well-balanced, with a succulent entry and moderate depth. It’s a little more savory than expected, which is why I failed to identify it. I will put a question mark against my score because there are definitely better bottles out there. Tasted blind at Chez Bruce, London.