Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Latour has an archetypal nose for the estate with black fruit, gravel and graphite notes, touches of pencil box developing with aeration, determined to put distance between itself and the Mouton-Rothschild alongside. The palate is medium-bodied and cohesive with a gentle grip. It is smooth in texture and not a complex Latour, yet it exhibits satisfying depth and feels like it could improve with continued bottle age. That said, to repeat my assertion in my last note, this quality level would not be accepted under the current regime. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at 67 Pall Mall.