Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Over a dozen or more bottles, the 1989 Vieux Château Certan has proved to be Alexandre Thienpont’s wine of the decade. This has a lovely bouquet with mulberry and cedar, a touch more mint than I recall and almost a pastille-like quality. That Earl Grey element develops with time. The palate is sweet on the entry, very well balanced and poised, showing more concentration and grip towards the garrigue-tinged finish that fans out wonderfully. This is probably at its peak now. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at 67 Pall Mall.