Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy make this a wonderful wine to drink. This has a life-affirming symmetry and a peacock’s tail on the finish that leaves you struck with awe. It is one of the best examples of more than two dozen over the years. Tasted at Woo Cheong Tea House.