Saar and Ruwer 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (May 2017)

At 9.5 percent alcohol, 35 grams of residual sugar, and more than 10 grams of acidity, this year’s bottling from the prow of the Kupp is analytically almost identical to its 2014 counterpart. Ripe white peach is laced with fresh lemon and suffused with chamomile in an aromatically head-turning and succulently flavorful performance. Glossy and expansive yet bright and buoyant, this finishes with rapier penetration, mouthwatering salinity and crystalline crushed stone counterpoint. (There is a bit more wind exposure but also compensatory moisture-retaining fine particulate matter to this parcel vis-à-vis the adjacent one that yields Lauer’s Kupp Grosses Gewächs. “The vines only reach modest height each year here,” he noted, “and then they just give up on growing.”)