Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

Taken from tank, the 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté La Covée de Bully has an open nose with apple blossom, orange pith and light grapefruit scents that gradually unfurl in the glass. The palate is zesty on the entry; it’s a bit of a livewire Aligoté with life-affirming vitality and tension on the finish. One of the top Aligoté that I have tasted this year, partly due to the venerable vines.