Sicily: The Island Nation (Jun 2021)

The 2017 Etna Rosso Feudo launches up from the glass with an intense and rich display of crushed black cherries, balsamic-tinged brown spice and incense. Its textures are silky, even fleshy in feel, with a saturating mix of citrus-tinged, tart red and black fruits, all motivated by vibrant acidity. This boasts tremendous concentration yet carries it well, as a coating of fine tannin struggles to emerge, creating a push and pull of sweet and sour tension. There’s a lot of warm-vintage character packed into the 2017 Feudo, yet it maintains admirable balance.