The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright, dark ruby-red. Rather wild aromas of licorice, pepper, game and sexy lees. Then dense and fresh on the palate, with a suave texture but a slightly medicinal coolness to the peppery blue fruit, black olive, licorice and fresh herb flavors. The animal quality carries through in the mouth. Finishes with a touch of greenness. Showing limited personality today: am I catching this wine at an awkward stage? (A second sample showed more classic Margaux aromas and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, licorice and minerals; a supple texture with a saline complexity; an attractive restrained sweetness; and a persistent finish featuring suave tannins. This bottle merited 90 points.)