The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(vinified with about 33% whole clusters): Good deep red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of crushed raspberry, cranberry, blood orange, menthol and spices. Dense and tactile but at the same time juicy and vibrant, showing excellent cut and saline complexity to its red fruit and menthol flavors. Notes of lavender, garrigue and mint contribute to the impression of inner-mouth lift. Some oak comes up with air and carries through a very long, spicy finish. Really superb fruit and perfectly judged use of stems here–and not at all heavily extracted. Nicolas Groffier noted that he’s now privileging clarity over roundess for his Bonnes-Mares.