The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(60% vendange entier; recently completed its malo): Bright, dark red. Expressive, distinctly red aromas of redcurrant, iron, minerals and vanillin oak, complicated by smoky underbrush. Smooth and sweet in the mouth, even creamy, with the deep red fruit flavors suggesting a leisurely ripening process. Substantial ripe tannins arrive late and coat the sides of the tongue. (This was totally different in style from the estate’s austere, blacker Clos Vougeot, which was juicy and penetrating but hugely tannic and impossible to assess in November owing to a high level of SO2.)