The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright lemon-yellow color. Ripe yellow fruits, mirabelle, spices, menthol and sexy oak tones on the rather restrained nose. Big, rich and full but with a light touch thanks to its lemony acidity and underlying smoky minerality. Conveys an impression of power but its baby fat also gives it a silky texture. Best today on the explosive, steadily mounting finish. Incidentally, Richard Fontaine assured me that 2008 was the last vintage here to show problems with premature oxidation, noting that he is now using higher-quality corks.