The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good bright deep red. Highly nuanced, fresh aromas of cherry, minerals, tobacco, herbs and spices. Sweet and fat but lively, with a fine-grained texture and superb inner-mouth energy and depth for the vintage. Finishes with suave tannins and mounting flavors of dark berries, spices, herbs and smoked meat. The pH here is 3.65, which winemaker Derenoncourt said was the highest since 1997, but which is on the low side for this vintage in general-a testament to the property’s cool clay and limestone soils. Here’s a 2003 that should benefit from a solid decade of cellaring.