The Best New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2012)

Pale yellow-gold. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes lemon pith, pear, iodine and chalky minerals. Ripe and densely packed but lively, offering candied citrus fruit flavors and deeper notes of anise and fig. Becomes spicier and stonier with air, finishing with strong punch and lingering smokiness and minerality. More open-knit and overtly ripe that most of the 2002 version, with plenty of depth and the richness and weight that distinguish this hot vintage.