The Best New Releases From Australia (Jul 1998)

Deep ruby, slightly less saturated than the Kangarilla but still opaque. High-toned aromas of crushed blackberry, cassis and violet; bordering on volatile. Hugely sweet in the mouth, with an amazingly creamy old-vines texture; strong acidity almost miraculously keeps the fruit vibrant. Finishes with powerful, chewy tannins. This outsized wine, which reminded me of a Turley zinfandel with residual sugar, is almost too much to drink, and makes the Kangarilla grenache seem elegant and dry by comparison. Fans of sheer size will rate this 93 or 94 points; I am speechless.