The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Bright red-ruby. Explosive if idiosyncratic aromas of tobacco, pepper, black olive, mocha and hot stones. Pungent and penetrating, with compelling flavors of raspberry, tobacco, black olive, dried rose, mocha, herbs and spices, plus a strong underlying minerality (I was variously reminded of Lafite, Haut-Brion and Ausone!). Suave and perfumed in the mouth; wonderfully ripe but dry. Finishes with noble tannins and great palate-staining length and grip. This wine is not for everyone-and a good thing, too, since it’s extremely limited-but it certainly flipped my switch. Negociants USA, Napa CA