The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2004)

Medium red. Complex aromas of plum, red berries, cinnamon, tree bark, pepper and bacon; autumnal in the style of a mature syrah yet still fresh. Then less sweet in the middle than the 1982 but more penetrating, with lovely clarity of flavor. Finishes with firm, slightly drying tannins. For tasters unfamiliar with fully mature classic Riojas, this would be an excellent starting point. Also tasted: 1998 Reserva Rioja, 1996 Gran Reserva Rioja, 1991 Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial Rioja.