The Bordeaux Soundtrack: Icons at Legacy Records (May 2024)

The 1990 Montrose is a divisive wine that can either leave you entranced or scratching your head, depending upon the level of Brettanomyces. Before I continue, this bottle did possess some Brett, albeit not as extreme as I have encountered previously. It has a powerful nose, animally, touches of singed leather and mocha. It is not Rhône-like in style, but it does lean that way. The palate is dense and grippy, with plush black fruit, some Brettanomyces compromising its delineation, and a dash of black pepper on the finish. On this occasion, I feel the 2010 Montrose shades it, although a second bottle proved fresher. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the Icons of Bordeaux dinner at Legacy Records in New York.