The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

This Pomerol estate just outside Catusseau was acquired from AXA Millésimes by the Moulin family in the summer of 2020; they had previously purchased Château Beauregard in 2014. I spoke to winemaker Diana Berrouet-Garcia via Zoom, and she explained how they are currently reorganizing the vineyard, replanting some parcels that have been affected by virus with slower-ripening rootstock and clones, and introducing Cabernet Franc through massal selection. The 2018 Petit Village was raised in 40% new oak and 5% aged in three amphorae (demi-muids were introduced for the 2020 vintage to age the Cabernet Franc). This has a ripe nose of black cherries, tobacco and light pencil box aromas. It unfurls nicely in the glass, although it does not achieve the complexity of the top-performing Pomerols. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and touches of charcoal infusing the black fruit. A little angular toward the finish, but there is plenty of freshness and tension. This Pomerol should drink well for 12–18 years.