The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton-Rothschild needed 2–3 hours before I began composing a single word. Eventually it unfolds with the same aromatics that I observed out of barrel: extraordinarily pure blackberry, blueberry, pressed violet petals and potpourri. It still has the alluring Margaux-like florality. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, disarmingly satin-like texture and wonderful cohesion. This is a sophisticated Mouton-Rothschild that is maybe less ostentatious than other recent vintages, but well aware of its class and breeding; it knows that there is no need to show off. The precision on the finish is riveting. Assessing it over many hours to plot its evolution, I wager that this First Growth may well drink earlier than I anticipated, so give it 5–6 years in bottle. Chapeau to retired winemaker Philippe Dhalluin and his team.