The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1994 Yquem, a vintage that sacraligiously I have not tasted before, was upended at the last furlong by two weeks of rain on the eve of picking. The wine comes from continuous harvest between October 5 and 14. It has a clear amber hue with green tints on the rim. The bouquet is better than expected given the vintage, with scents of barley sugar, Seville orange marmalade and fig, not complex or offering scintillating delineation, yet focused. However, it does begin lacking some vigour with continued aeration. The palate is well balanced with a tangy, marmalade-tinged entry and fresh acidity. Where this Yquem stumbles and its score is downgraded is in its second half, which feels curt and abrupt, missing unctuousity. This is a little dry after three decades. Given the perfect provenance, I suggest bottles of 1994 should be drunk over the next decade, as it will not improve. 122 g/l residual sugar. Tasted at the château.