The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru comprises eight and a half barrels this year (there are just three in 2024). Crisp and poised, it has life-affirming clarity on the nose, gently unfolding with predominantly black cherry and raspberry fruit, a hint of salted licorice lingering in the background. The palate is so silky on the entry that you are beholden from the first sip, but there is immense structure behind this Charmes-Chambertin. Perhaps I would have liked a little more red fruit and Pinoté on the finish, but this is certain to evolve magnificently in bottle. Excellent, as usual.