The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

Dark, warming and seductive in the glass, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva entrances with masses of cherry and plum sauce offset by cloves, hints of blood orange and a dusting of violet candies. Its textures are like crushed velvet, weighty yet refined, with a wave of ripe red and hints of blue fruit that coast along a core of energizing acidity. A tart twang of sour citrus adds further gravitas, as grippy tannins tug at the palate; and yet the mouth continues to water, as salty mineral tones and hints of red licorice slowly fade. This is a towering expression of the vintage, which will continue to impress for many years to come. I’m not sure how it’s possible, but the 2012 Riserva seems to get better every time I revisit it.