The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with all of the aromas of a traditional fruitcake on Christmas Day, as an assortment of rum-soaked berries, raisins, brown spice, molasses and cloves fill the senses. It’s velvety in texture, yet more lifted than anticipated, with tart red fruits and nuances of blood orange over a tension-building core of brisk acidity. A hint of powdered cocoa and sour cherries lingers, as the 2012 finishes fresh, a bit shorter than expected, yet still harmonious and full of life. What a beauty.