The Pfalz – Not False – Promise of 2018 (Mar 2021)

To a yet more striking extent than with this year’s village-level Kabinett trocken (which was bottled in May 2019), this late August bottling from the Saumagen marries schmaltz and apparent glycerol-richness with alcoholic levity (at barely 12%). Sweet corn, apple and quince are complemented by piquant nuttiness, while high-toned hints of sour mash and apple distillate heighten aromatic interest. There is a succulent fruitiness here that is unusually prominent for this estate, except for in this particular vintage. Chalk, black pepper and oregano accents lend interest and invigoration to a glowingly sustained yet delightfully refreshing finish. Despite its harboring just 3.5 grams of residual sugar, one could easily mistake this beauty for halbtrocken due to its combination of ripe fruit flavors and analytically low total acidity.