The Wine Was Chambertin: Rousseau 1919-2017 (Jun 2022)

It is difficult to imagine a wine more gorgeous than the 1990 Chambertin Grand Cru from Armand Rousseau. It’s in a beautiful place after 32 years. It is a sibling of the 1985 on the nose with beguiling pure red cherries, crushed stone, fern and with aeration, freshly slice strawberry. There is a warmth here, yet it never impedes the terroir. The palate is medium-bodied, a millefeuille of red fruit lace with Chinese 5-spice and clove, decadent and confident but without hubris and with a surfeit of finesse. There is a wonderful crescendo on the finish with a sustained candied finish. Wonderful. Tasted at the Rousseau Chambertin vertical at La Vienne.