Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cheval Blanc contains a little more Merlot than other vintages, probably anomalous to other estates on the Right Bank. This was bottled at the beginning of July. It has almost clinical delineation on the nose. The 2020 is extremely well-focused, with subtle pressed iris and violet scents embroidered into the predominantly black fruit – quite serious in style. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, black fruit laced with blueberry, just a hint of brine and a composed, saline finish. It’s a Cheval Blanc that will require a decade in bottle; not the most flamboyant in recent years, but it is intellectually satisfying without question.