Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Ausone, which has slightly more Merlot than usual, was picked from September 14 to 29 and raised for 20 months entirely in new oak before bottling in mid-July, according to the lunar calendar. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry and boysenberry fruit, pain grillé and background scents of licorice. Very mineral-driven. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and a fine backbone, pure with impressive tension. Satin texture with a dash of cracked black pepper surface with time in the glass. Persistent in the mouth, perhaps without fully developing that knockout crescendo on the finish, though that might evolve with bottle age. Still, this is an outstanding Ausone.