Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1982 Pichon-Lalande has a very pure bouquet, sensual and beautifully defined, featuring blackberry and hints of graphite, and later crushed violet, so that the aromatics are almost Margaux-like. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly edgy, balsamic-tinged entry. There is great depth, focus and power here, though in recent encounters I find the secondary aromas more prominent, and the wine no longer possesses the flamboyance that it demonstrated a decade ago. Hints of tar and pencil shaving line the persistent finish. This remains a great wine, and yet several bottles in the last 24 months suggest that it is no longer the perfect wine that it clearly was in the late 1990s. Tasted at a vertical tasting at the château.