Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1985 Yquem suffered by there being just a single day of rain between 15 September and 1 November, precluding botrytis formation. Nevertheless, picking started on 5 October and unexpectedly some botrytis did appear. The nose is clean but simple for this estate, dried honey and hazelnut, almond and a subtle petrol-like aroma. The palate is balanced but again, quite straightforward with tangy marmalade and barley sugar notes, drying a little towards the finish. Modest amounts of pleasure to be had here, though it’s a bit of a joke without a punchline. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux (not Yquem).