Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1962 Yquem has always been a feted vintage. This bottle, served at a private dinner in London, was certainly impressive. It was a late-ripening year and it was only after 15 October that botrytis-affected grapes could be picked. Refulgent in colour, it has a disarming nose with dried honey, candle wax and light adhesive scents, as I observed in a previous bottle 10 years ago, almost Barsac-like in character. What it just lacks vis-a-vis say, the 1959 or 1967 is intent, vivacity and energy. The palate is well balanced with pitch-perfect acidity, those tropes of ginger and orange sorbet noticed before, plenty of residual sugar adorning its mellifluous finish. Excellent, but I would still be inclined to drink bottles sooner rather than later.