Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2015 Yquem has always been a vintage that I have approached with caution. It was a very early harvest that began on 3 September and finished on 21 October after temperatures fell during the picking. As usual, I have reservations about the nose that, for me, lacks the cohesion and complexity of the 2014. Acacia honey, white flowers and quince, just a hint of toffee apple, beautiful but not quite as compelling as the previous vintage. The palate is well balanced, viscous and is bestowed impressive weight. It does not quite have the tension and nerve of 2014, but has wonderful purity. Superb, though not hors-classe. Tasted at the château.