Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1995 Yquem is deep gold in colour. According to the estate, potential alcohol levels shot up from 16° at the beginning of harvest to 30° within two weeks. The bouquet bursts from the glass, as before, quite Barsac-like in style with white peach, tangerine, acacia and saffron, a touch of candle wax with time. I have always found this to be a precocious Yquem, quite unctuous, showy even, though this example has more reserve towards the finish and perhaps more delineation. After a quarter of a century, this is drinking beautifully now. À point.