Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in your face, but simply lack Pinoté, while the palate is tannic and ferociously backward with dense tannins. Even after 16 years, it is a rather charmless Pommard and one that I cannot see improving with extended bottle age. Leroux went on to make better Clos des Epeneaux and Zanetti is currently firing on all cylinders (though maybe not this evening, as he had just had his second jab). Tasted at the Sanglier dinner in Hameau de Barberon.