Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a reductive bouquet, opening with aeration. It’s minerally with chalk dust and flint. This feels a little suppressed by the SO2 at the moment, but wow, it just soars when I return to the glass after ten minutes. The palate is well-balanced with good concentration, unapologetically backward. It’s tangy towards the finish with a seam of orange rind and marmalade. The 2020 needs a tad more persistence on the finish, but that will come with time. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.