Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a strange bouquet, almost Muscat-like at the beginning. It’s very floral to the extent that it masks the fruit profile. Given a few minutes in the glass, it finally gains delineation and focus, offering petrichor and sea cave, and then it’s off and away. The palate is well-balanced with a finely posed entry, saline and focused, gaining weight towards a harmonious and powerful finish that pulls off the trick of being tender and graceful. Quite brilliant and, surprisingly, one of the highest scores awarded throughout the entire week-long tasting of 2020s. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.