Vertical Tasting of Castello di Monsanto’s Chianti Classico Il Poggio Riserva (Feb 2013)

(90% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo nero and colorino del Valdarno; pH 3.36; total acidity 5.90 g/l; dry extract 32.5 g/l; 13.1% alcohol): Amber red. Mesmerizingly beautiful, highly complex aromas of peach, raspberry jelly, red cherry, nail polish, orange peel, cloves, caramel, and chestnut; less marked by chestnut notes than the 1977. Very dense and full, with impressively sweet, highly concentrated flavors of red cherry syrup, delicate underbrush and licorice. The strong but harmonious acidity gives the flavors superb focus on the long, smooth, extremely broad finish. Truly profound and atypically aromatic red wine: when I asked Laura Bianchi where the wine’s intense peach and nail polish notes were from, she candidly admitted that 10% of the grapes had been hit by noble rot, which also explains why this was never a darkly colored wine.