Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1959 Château Margaux is a splendid wine even if it lags behind its First Growth peers. This example possesses a touch more fruit on the nose than previous ones, redcurrant and strawberry, wilted rose petals and hints of Provençal herbs unfurling in the glass, though there are no fireworks. The palate is very well balanced with admirable precision, real weight and presence, and then it eases back to a harmonious finish. The precocity of that season is tangible, though it politely refuses to deliver the pizzazz and audacity you can find elsewhere.