Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1982 Mouton-Rothschild, well, what is there left to say? A lot, actually, because this wine is prone to variance between bottles. This one, bought a decade ago, was a fine example that suggests it is reaching full maturity. There’s plenty of dashing and glossy black fruit on the nose, with cedar, a touch of brown spices, graphite and sage. It’s decadent but more evolved than others. The palate is immense with body and girth, layers of slightly savory black fruit that is almost viscous in texture, quintessential Claret yet with just a suggestion of Mediterranean flair. Based on this bottle, I would be popping corks now, but as I mentioned, the next could be more youthful and primal.