Vinous Table: Henry’s End, Brooklyn, New York (Apr 2025)

The 2005 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru from Domaine Georges Roumier proves that this vintage produced some really classy wines whose tannins are finally softening. It boasts exquisite purity on the nose, blossoming with white-tipped strawberry, raspberry, crushed rose petals and wet limestone, polished and sophisticated. The palate is framed by filigree tannins that, if tasted blind, divert you away from this typically structured vintage. There is gentle but insistent grip towards a finish that is imbued with the grip you expect from a Morey rather than a Chambolle. This is beginning to take flight.