Vinous Table: Le Relais de Saulx, Beaune, France (Apr 2021)

I chose a 2017 Maranges Clos de la Boutière 1er Cru from Domaine Bachelet-Monnot. Being a huge fan of Alexandre and Marc Bachelet, I had high expectations. This bottle surpassed them. Vivid scents of Morello cherries, wild strawberry and freshly tilled loam unfolded with confidence throughout the dinner, beautifully defined and animated. The palate is a typical 2017 Côtes de Beaune, bright, fresh and tensile with a perfect line of acidity, offering crisp cranberry, red cherry and loganberry fruit, and completed by a sapid finish that has a spring in its step, beckoning you back for another sip. Polishing off a bottle between two was not a problem. It is not a heinous crime to open this Maranges now, but give it an hour’s decant or otherwise another couple of years in the cellar.