Vinous Table: L’Espace PH3 Bistrot/La Pyramide, Vienne, France (NM)

Ramonet’s 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is wonderful. Scintillating delineation and focus on the nose, then builds in intensity in the glass with its mineral-driven malic fruit and petrichor notes. The palate is powerful, quite spicy with lip-smacking salinity. Great depth and grip, this fans out beautifully on the finish.