Vinous Table: Logis de la Cadène, Saint-Émilion (Oct 2018)

For the rest of the meal we polished off an excellent and well-priced 2009 Château d’Aiguilhe since I do not often encounter Stephan von Neipperg’s Côtes de Castillon with maturity. Deep in colour, the 2009 has a gorgeous bouquet that probably reflects the growing season more than the terroir: scents of black fruit, black olive, a little iodine and just the right amount of comforting alcohol warmth. The palate is full-bodied yet balanced, with rounded clove-infused black fruit and a light black truffle note on the glycerin-rich finish. The 2009 might actually be a year away from its peak; it is one of those wines that go for the sensory jugular rather than the intellect, and why not?