Vinous Table: Noble Rot Soho, London, UK (Sep 2020)

To baptize the new restaurant, one of our generous guests proffered a magnum of 1982 Grand Puy Lacoste. It is a few years since I last tasted this Pauillac but it remains a magnificent wine. Limpid and youthful, it displayed very little ageing compared to other 1982s, partly due to the larger format. The bouquet is very seductive with ebullient dark plum, iodine and blueberry, perhaps not far removed from another great Left Bank that year, the 1982 Pichon-Lalande. The palate is exquisitely balanced with supple, saturated tannins. This has clearly mellowed because it was extremely tannic two decades ago; pure and sensual towards the velvety smooth finish. This is only just reaching its peak, but there is no doubt that well-stored bottles could last another 30-40 years.