Vinous Table: Salumeria Roscioli, Rome, Italy (Jun 2015)

I began the meal with the 2004 Bonneau de Martray Corton-Charlemagne, which is drinking beautifully at present: a whiff of reduction blew off with aeration, revealing precise mineral driven acacia flower, honeyed stone fruit and delicate hazelnut aromas and flavors. At 200 years and counting, the family running the Domaine knows a thing or two about the Charlemagne vineyards, and it shows. This turned out to be a great food wine, full of lively acidity and no undue weight (even better, this white Burgundy showed no signs of premox). It matched very well with the mozzarella, and even the anchovies weren’t overwhelmed, given the wine’s still bright acidity. It’s drinking beautifully at present, so I am not sure there’s much to gain by hanging on to any bottles much longer.