Vinous Table: The Black Bull, Sedbergh, UK (Jan 2020)

For the reds, the restaurant allowed corkage on a bottle of 1975 Haut-Batailley. Left Bank wines born in this vintage have a propensity to be tannic and very austere. This, plus the fact that in this era, Haut-Batailley was a rather down-at-heel estate, meant that my hopes for this Pauillac were tempered. Well, blow me down if this bottle didn’t exemplify everything I love about proper mature claret! Clear in color with just a little bricking, it sported an elegant tobacco and autumn leaf bouquet, thankfully replete with more residual fruit than other 1975s I have encountered, maybe even compared to Grand Puy Lacoste. The palate is well balanced, mellow and harmonious. There is nothing complex or profound; it’s what you might call an “honest” mature Pauillac that is comfortable in itself. It passed the crucial test: the bottle was polished off in no time at all. If you happen to find an example with sound provenance, then it comes highly recommended.