Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

We began with the 2007 Brut Vintage from Egly-Ouriet. Without entering the cause célèbre about price hikes, this bottle did explain why it enjoys such a fanatical following. At 17 years of age, it has evolved into a quite entrancing bouquet, a little yeasty, with hints of lemon sherbet and Japanese yuzu, all delivered with captivating delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced with a lively spine of acidity, a twist of sour lemon and Clementine and just a trace of viscosity towards the finish. It is drinking perfectly now, and if you can afford it, then lucky you.