Vinous Table: The Silver Birch, London, UK (Jul 2021)

The 2005 Canon is an absolute gem and, like many 2005s, is beginning to shed its tannins and become more approachable and terroir-driven. Red berry fruit, undergrowth, hints of singed leather and warm gravel manifest on the nose, plus just a touch of hot bricks in the background, and perhaps terra-cotta. The palate is not muscular but shows fine backbone. The tannins, having softened in the last couple of years, frame a mélange of red and black fruit intermixed with bay leaf and clove. Kudos to winemaker John Kolasa, who oversaw this vintage and was instrumental in the estate’s rejuvenation.