Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1982 Montrose is an epochal wine for this writer as it opened my mind to the joy of fermented grape juice in the first furlongs of my career. Though I have drunk it countless times thereafter, never from an imperial and no doubt that underlines why this is one of the best examples. Old school on the nose that is armed with scents of forest floor, freshly-rolled tobacco and pencil shavings, it is not earth-shatteringly complex, yet has more grace compared to regular bottles. Likewise, the palate is well balanced and fresh, delicate considering château and vintage, fine-boned with darker fruit laced with cedar towards the finish. Delicious, though it’s a Montrose that delivers in larger formats these days and would pale against the 1989 or a non-Brettanomyces affected 1990.