Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(made from 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay; 20% of the wine was aged in oak; no malo, as usual): Light, bright gold. Heady mineral- and smoke-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with notes of fig, toasted nuts and sweet butter adding complexity and depth. Powerful, palate-staining poached pear and orange flavors are given spine by a smoky mineral quality, picking up floral and spicecake notes with air. Rich but lively and precise, finishing with superb clarity, power and spicy persistence. Drinking this Champagne now would be a shame given this cuvee’s track record for aging.