Western Australia: Old World–Style Reds and Whites (Jul 2021)

Limpid straw-yellow. Intensely perfumed, mineral- and lees-accented Meyer lemon, pear and melon aromas show excellent clarity and pick up hints of honeysuckle and iodine as the wine stretches out. Displays superb clarity and mineral lift on the palate, offering juicy, smoke-accented nectarine, pear nectar and kumquat flavors that show impressive tension and back-end cut. The mineral quality repeats strongly on the strikingly long, vaguely smoky finish, which leaves behind a sexy floral note. In the context of world-class, ageworthy Chardonnay, which is clearly where this wine should be placed, there’s remarkable value here.